Thursday, July 1, 2010
VOGUE: If Wonder Woman Needed Jewelry, She Would Go to Jessica Robinson
If Wonder Woman Needed Jewelry, She Would Go to Jessica Robinson
It wasn’t until jewelry designer Jessica Robinson was playing dress up with her fiancé’s daughter, Luna, that she saw the potential to amplify the scale of her pieces. It took Luna covering her tiny fingers with Robinson’s pyramid rings for her to realize how perfect one would be enlarged as an oversize Wonder Woman–worthy bracelet. Postplaytime, Robinson was at the jewelry bench in her apartment making a mold for a massive pyramid cuff.
It was seven years ago that Robinson decided to become a certified bench jeweler. “Tearing apart metal has literally—and figuratively—made me stronger,” she says of handcrafting imaginings in her dressing closet turned studio. Each geometric piece is made of gold embedded with diamonds (champagne, canary yellow, and black) or moonstones. Beyond sloping-disk rings, oval-diamond symbol pendants, and feather earrings that cover the lower ear, there are also unexpected approaches to adornment, hand pieces, multiple-finger rings, and draped-chain belts.
Past commissions include engagement rings, ornate crowns, and goddess headpieces. Robinson has also designed cufflinks for her friend Salman Rushdie, each interchangeable link the cover of one of his novels (every birthday another edition is added) and a monkey-relief necklace for a certain swashbuckling movie star. Soon there will be bejeweled parlor games and urns. And all of it will follow her strict house rule: “Don’t go to your bench until you have something to create, and you’re convinced that no one else can create it but you.”